Keaton's BBQ - Cleveland, NC
I spent this past weekend in Statesville, NC sitting under a canopy/tent on a soccer field for hours and hours and hours. It was 95 degrees and you couldn’t fly a post-it note, let alone a kite the air was so still. What I’m trying to say is it was hotter than hell, people. Really. The only thing that kept my spirits up was knowing that as soon as the kids’ games were over I was gonna get me some spicy chicken at Keaton’s. Now, for those of you who aren’t familiar with Keaton’s chicken you’re probably thinking “so what”. Let me just tell you, this stuff is amazingly good. It’s been raved about by Jane & Michael Sterns on Roadfood (http://www.roadfood.com/Reviews/Overview.aspx?RefID=621). They loved it so much it’s in their Top 5 faves. Lynne has sang it’s praises on The Splendid Table. Go to www.chowhound.com and you’ll see foodie folks travel out of their way to find it. It ain’t easy to find either. It’s definitely off the beaten path in the middle of no where and sandwiched between corn fields.
They open for dinner at 5:00 pm and not a moment before. A line starts to form about 10 minutes ’til. This is a no frills roadside joint and you get the feeling you’re lucky if they let you in and share their chicken with you. The service is slow and nobody is lookin’ to chat so just order clearly and pay up and step to the side. Oh, and don’t you dare step back and help yourself to a beverage in the glass front cooler. They’ll bite your head off quicker than you can say “oops”. There is no air conditioning and it’s hot inside. They keep the air moving with fans throughout the place. There are hand made signs posted everywhere telling you what not to do. Things like “Shirt & Shoes Required”, “If a waitress takes your order, don’t switch seats” and “This is self-serv, throw away your own trash”. Oh, and of course one aimed at us annoying foodies, “Do not take photos of staff without their permission”. Ha!
The chicken is deep-fried (no batter dipping here) and then plunged into hot barbecue sauce. You can chose between mild and spicy. I’m all about the spicy! We ordered the thigh and leg combos. I’m a dark meat girl. I have to tell you, I picked my bones clean. I started off with a plastic fork which didn’t help much so I got into it with my fingers and I worked those bones over. My mother would’ve been so proud as she was a professional at cleaning up chicken bones, pork chop bones, steak bones, etc.
The sides, although many love ‘em, I could take or leave. We had the mac n’ cheese, spicy vinegar slaw and fries. Definitely don’t order the crinkle cut fries. They are the rubbery cafeteria variety. The slaw is good but all I really care about is that spicy chicken and a pitcher of tea. They are closed on Sundays. Get out there soon, y’all!
Spicy BBQ chicken w/ slaw and mac n' cheese @ Keaton's
Lynne, this place has been on my mind for a week. I have never been but I have to go soon or it will make me a crazy person.
You’ve inspired me. I’m gonna take a trip out there tomorrow. My friend has been wanting me to take her to the new Korean BBQ on Independence (worth supporting if you’ve not been already). Looks like she’s gonna get Keaton’s BBQ instead!
A woman I work with told me that back in the day they served food on those pink styrofoam platters that ground beef comes on at the supermarket. They would wash and re-use! Also she said that it was spoons only. They wouldn’t give you forks or knives so as to preserve the integrity of the styro. Judging from your photo, those days are over…thank God. Still trying to get up there – I’m bringing a fork just in case
My buddy & I ate there this past Wed. Spent about $19.00 on two 1/2 chickens 3 sides total & two drinks which seemed kind of high for a restaurant with no service or maybe I’m just a cheep restaurant owner from Iowa. We where out crusing the countryside, really enjoyed the twisting winding hilly road,
when we drove by and my buddy said that the place was well known for its BBQ so we turned around and stopped. We ordered and I proceeded to read all the write ups on the walls. Seems this place was started in the fifty’s and was run by the original owner and his two brothers. I asked a man who was waiting for a to-go order if the original owner was still alive and he said no, he had passed on a few years back. After reading another article I learned he had passed in 1998, so the placed was either sold or was being run by his family, I didn’t ask. As for the food I wood give it a 6 on a 10 scale. Maybe my taste buds are different than your average southern folk but the chicken was fried and a little dry and than dipped into a hot BBQ sauce that tasted like a watered down version of the commercially available Franks Hot Sauce. The baked beans tasted like they were straight out of a can of Van Camps and the potato salad was made with lumpy mashed potatoes, all totally edible but not special.
My freind who has lived in the area for the past 12 years also agreed with my assessment. Thoughts that come to mind are that the special touch, the original owner had, did not survive after his passing, which made a great place to eat just an average place. To be fair the next time I get down there I will try it again, who knows maybe they were just having a bad day. TT
Hey Terry, Thanks for posting. I hate that you didn’t enjoy your meal at Keaton’s. I think it’s incredibly tasty chicken and I’m a huge fan of their sauce. I don’t think it tastes anything like Franks – as Keaton’s has a sweetness that’s nothing like Franks. It’s called “dipped chicken”. Chicken pieces that are fried and then dipped into the bbq sauce. I love this cooking method because it results in a crispy bbq chicken. I agree w/ you about the sides and have always told folks to avoid them. I think their beans are straight out of a can. The place is still run by Mr. Keaton’s family and is held in high regard by locals and first-timers alike. I guess it’s just a matter of taste and not for everyone. Visit their website if you’d like to know more and for links to NPR’s The Splendid Table review and RoadFood by The Sterns. Happy Eatin’.
I just had to comment on this. My family loves Keatons and we have been going for years. The dark meat chicken is better than the white, and I don’t normally eat dark meat chicken. Try the dark meat in mild next time and get a cup of the hot sauce to dip your bread in. I highly recommend the potato salad. It is very creamy and is made fresh every day. It doesn’t have onions in it, so if you want onions they will put some chopped onions on top. The mac and cheese is some of the best I have ever had. My kids could live off of it and we always have to get two servings for each of them. I love their spicy slaw. It is the traditional southern red bbq slaw, but with a nice kick. My kids think the only way to enjoy the chicken is with a Cheerwine in the bottle.
I’m with you, Keaton’s is the best chicken ever. Period. I, too, get the dark meat. I’m all about the hot sauce though. So glad you commented! I can’t wait to get my next Keaton’s fix and I’ll be sure and try the potato salad this time.
Jessica, I need to reach you and GFL about a project for another food site. Could one of you contact me through my Observer e-mail, kpurvis@charlotteobserver.com? Dang, I wish you guys would add a simple “contact” button!